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The Pantheon, Rome

Having lived in Rome for two years (1996/97) I developed the habit of visiting the Pantheon regularly. In a city filled with remarkable monuments, it became one of the places I returned to most often. It’s always a wow moment when entering the busy Piazza della Rotonda and seeing this colossal building right in front of you. I would spend time beneath the huge dome contemplating the continuity of human civilisation, often sitting on the floor before being moved on by an attendant. Despite the constant activity outside, the interior always felt calm and majestic and refreshingly cool, even in the hot summer months.

The Pantheon as we see it today was constructed during the reign of Emperor Hadrian around 118–125 CE, replacing an earlier temple built by Marcus Agrippa in 27 BCE. Hadrian chose to retain Agrippa’s original inscription above the entrance — M·AGRIPPA·L·F·COS·TERTIVM·FECIT, meaning “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, made this.” It is a reminder of the Roman tendency to honour earlier achievements and maintain continuity with the past.

Originally dedicated as a temple to all the gods of Rome, the Pantheon is now recognised as one of the greatest surviving monuments of ancient engineering. It remains the largest and oldest non-supported concrete dome in the world, and nearly two thousand years after it was built, it is still standing at the heart of Rome’s historic centre.

The building is entered through a monumental portico supported by sixteen large Corinthian columns made of Egyptian granite. There are still niches visible in these columns which were used to support market stalls when the exterior colonnade was used as a covered bazaar. This grand entrance leads into one of the most extraordinary interior spaces in ancient architecture.

Inside, the design is based on a clear geometric principle: a sphere contained within a cylinder. The diameter of the dome is equal to the height from the floor to the oculus, creating a precise sense of proportion throughout the structure.

At the centre of the dome is the Pantheon’s most famous feature, the oculus, a circular opening almost nine metres wide that allows natural light into the building. Throughout the day, sunlight moves slowly across the interior walls and floor. When it rains, water falls through the opening and drains away through small holes built into the ancient Roman pavement. You can visit on a rainy day and not get wet if you stand close to the walls.

The dome itself is constructed from unreinforced concrete and it becomes progressively lighter toward the top. The recessed ceiling panels, known as coffers, reduce the weight of the dome while also creating the distinctive pattern across the interior.

The Pantheon’s survival is largely due to its conversion into a Christian church in 609 CE by Pope Boniface IV. This transformation helped preserve the building at a time when many other ancient Roman structures were dismantled.

One notable episode in its later history occurred in the seventeenth century when Pope Urban VIII ordered the bronze from the portico top to be removed. Much of the bronze was reused in St Peter’s Basilica, most famously in Bernini’s monumental baldachini, the large bronze canopy above the papal altar supported by four twisting columns, representing curling incense.

The Pantheon is also the final resting place for several important figures in Italian history. The most famous is Raphael, the Renaissance painter and architect. Also buried here are King Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of unified Italy, his son King Umberto I, and Queen Margherita of Savoy.

For many years entry to the Pantheon was free, which added to the sense that it was simply part of everyday Roman life. More recently, however, an entrance fee of five euros has been introduced, and visitors are generally required to book tickets in advance.

Even after living in Rome and returning many times since, the Pantheon remains one of the places I always visit. Standing beneath the dome and watching the light move through the oculus is still one of the most memorable experiences the city offers, and it’s even more special on a rainy day, never losing its impact, no matter how many times you return.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, or The Met as it’s known to locals and aficionados, stretches along Fifth Avenue at the edge of Central Park, its monumental Beaux-Arts façade, broad staircases and columned entrance feel both awe-inspiring and welcoming.

The Met was never designed as a complete building. It grew incrementally, wing by wing, responding to an expanding collection and changing ideas about how art should be displayed. That layered evolution still shapes the experience inside. You feel it in the way spaces change scale and design as you move through them; ceilings rise and fall, corridors narrow, some galleries are vast while others are intimate.

The Met was founded in 1870, at the time New York was redefining itself. The city had wealth, industry and momentum, but lacked cultural institutions on the scale of European capitals. The Met was conceived as a public museum with a broad educational mission, intended to place art and history within reach of a wide audience rather than an elite few.Today, the museum holds more than two million objects, spanning roughly 5,000 years of human history.

Getting around the Met

The Met is divided into 17 curatorial departments, ranging from American Art and European Paintings to Arms and Armor, Asian Art, African Art, Islamic Art, and Greek and Roman Art. Rather than thinking of the Met as one museum, it’s more useful to think of it as many museums under one roof, each with its own rhythm and logic. It’s too much to take in in a single visit, or even a few. I have been visiting for years and everytime I go, after I have visited my favourite objects of course, I always discover something new.

The American Wing

Many visitors begin in the American Wing, and it’s an effective entry point. The American Wing occupies a significant place within the museum, presenting art that often speaks directly to ideas of national identity and historical memory.

Emanuel Leutze’s Washington Crossing the Delaware (1851, oil on canvas) is impossible to miss. The painting’s scale and theatricality are unmistakable. Washington stands improbably upright in a fragile boat, framed against icy water and a charged sky. This is history presented as myth, and a powerful symbol of democratic struggle and determination.

Nearby, John Singer Sargent’s Madame X draws attention for different reasons. When first exhibited in Paris, the portrait caused outrage, largely due to the sitter’s exposed shoulder strap and self-possessed stance. Today, the scandal has faded, but the painting’s composure remains striking. 

Beyond individual works, the American Wing’s period rooms offer a quieter but deeply contextual experience. These reconstructed interiors situate art, furniture and architecture within domestic spaces, giving a sense of how objects functioned in daily life. 

Ancient Egypt galleries

The Temple of Dendur occupies a place in the museum that few visitors forget. Dating to around 15 BCE, the temple was gifted to the United States during an international effort to preserve Egyptian monuments threatened by the construction of the Aswan Dam. 

Rather than isolating it as a relic, the Met created an environment around it. Housed within a glass-walled gallery overlooking Central Park, the temple sits beside a reflecting pool that mirrors its stone surfaces while different shades of light shift across the carvings throughout the day. 

The surrounding Egyptian galleries extend the narrative through objects that speak to daily life as much as ritual: jewellery, tools, writing, cosmetics and domestic items. Together, they create a sense of continuity, reminding visitors that these were lived cultures, not abstract civilisations.

European Painting galleries

The European Painting galleries form one of the museum’s most expansive exhibits, and they reward time spent lingering. Rather than overwhelming through density, the rooms allow individual works enough space to hold their ground. Returning to the same room on different visits often reveals entirely different points of focus.

Johannes Vermeer’s Young Woman with a Water Pitcher is modest in scale but luminous in effect. Light falls gently across the figure and the interior space, drawing viewers closer almost unconsciously. The Met holds five Vermeers, an extraordinary number given how few survive, and each one demonstrates a different aspect of his skill.

Rembrandt’s Aristotle with a Bust of Homer offers a heavier, more contemplative presence. The philosopher’s hand rests on the sculpted head of the poet, and the interplay of light and shadow gives the painting psychological depth. 

El Greco’s View of Toledo disrupts expectations entirely. Its storm-heavy sky and charged colours feel closer to emotion than topography. Seen in person, it carries an intensity that reproduction rarely captures.

Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses brings a different kind of immediacy. Thick, animated brushstrokes push against the surface of the canvas. Standing before it, the idea of landscape as emotional expression is apparent.

Objects, armour and material culture

The Arms and Armor galleries are worth a visit. Suits of medieval armour gleam under controlled light, ceremonial weapons reveal extraordinary craftsmanship, and the objects convey power, protection and display simultaneously. 

The Medieval Sculpture Hall introduces a different atmosphere entirely. Stone figures stand beneath vaulted ceilings, creating a sense of gravity.

The Costume Institute, with its rotating exhibitions, adds another layer to the museum’s identity. These shows explore fashion as culture and expression, and their popularity reflects the way the Met continues to engage with contemporary interests alongside historical depth.

Temporary exhibitions run throughout the year, drawing on the museum’s deep holdings as well as international loans. Seasonal rooftop installations introduce contemporary work alongside views of Central Park and the skyline. 

The Met remains one of New York’s defining places not just because of its size or the fame of its holdings, though both are substantial, but for the rewards it offers its visitors: a tangible connection to the past and a reminder of how long people have been making and appreciated things of beauty. 

15 famous works at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1. Washington Crossing the Delaware
Emanuel Leutze, 1851 (acquired by The Met, 1897)
This monumental painting depicts George Washington leading his troops across the icy Delaware River during the American Revolutionary War. Painted in Germany, not America, it was intended as a broader statement about democratic ideals at a time of political unrest in Europe. Its dramatic composition and heroic symbolism helped fix this moment in the American imagination, even though the scene is more allegorical than historically precise.

2. Madame X
John Singer Sargent, 1883–1884 (acquired by The Met, 1916)
Sargent’s portrait of Parisian socialite Virginie Amélie Gautreau caused scandal when first exhibited, largely due to its original fallen shoulder strap and the sitter’s unapologetic confidence. The backlash effectively ended Sargent’s Paris career, but the painting endures for its restraint and cool authority.

3. The Temple of Dendur
Ancient Egypt, c. 15 BCE (installed at The Met, 1978)
An entire sandstone temple dedicated to Isis, originally located along the Nile. Gifted to the United States in recognition of its role in saving Nubian monuments threatened by the Aswan Dam, the temple was installed in a purpose-built gallery overlooking Central Park, where light and reflection give it a sense of continued life.

4. Young Woman with a Water Pitcher
Johannes Vermeer, c. 1662 (acquired by The Met, 1887)
A quiet domestic scene defined by subtle light and stillness. The woman pauses mid-action, suspended between movement and rest. The Met’s ownership of five Vermeers is exceptional, given how few of his works survive, and this painting is often cited for its balance of intimacy and compositional precision.

5. Aristotle with a Bust of Homer
Rembrandt van Rijn, 1653 (acquired by The Met, 1961)
Commissioned by a Sicilian nobleman, this contemplative portrait shows Aristotle resting his hand on a bust of Homer, exploring ideas of knowledge, fame and legacy. The interplay of shadow and texture gives the figure psychological depth, and the work marked one of the most significant acquisitions in the museum’s history at the time.

6. View of Toledo
El Greco, c. 1596–1600 (acquired by The Met, 1907)
A charged, storm-laden vision of the Spanish city, painted with an intensity that feels closer to emotion than geography. Landscapes were rare in El Greco’s time, making this work unusually expressive and often cited as a precursor to modern approaches to mood and form.

7. Wheat Field with Cypresses
Vincent van Gogh, 1889 (acquired by The Met, 1949)
Painted during Van Gogh’s stay at the asylum in Saint-Rémy, this landscape pulses with movement and colour. Van Gogh once described cypress trees as ‘beautiful as Egyptian obelisks’, an observation that feels especially resonant when the painting is seen near the Temple of Dendur.

8. Self-Portrait with a Straw Hat
Vincent van Gogh, 1887 (acquired by The Met, 1967)
One of several self-portraits painted during Van Gogh’s Paris period, reflecting his experimentation with colour and brushwork. Van Gogh often used himself as a model out of necessity, but these portraits also chart his evolving artistic identity.

9. The Death of Socrates
Jacques-Louis David, 1787 (acquired by The Met, 1931)
Depicting the philosopher calmly accepting death rather than renouncing his beliefs, the painting embodies Enlightenment ideals of reason and moral integrity. Painted just before the French Revolution, it later became associated with political sacrifice and civic virtue.

10. The Harvesters
Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1565 (acquired by The Met, 1919)
Part of a series representing the months of the year, this panoramic scene focuses on ordinary people working the land. Bruegel’s attention to daily labour was unusual for the period and helped shift European art toward scenes of everyday life.

11. Adam
Tullio Lombardo, c. 1490–1495 (acquired by The Met, 1936)
A rare Renaissance marble sculpture combining classical influence with human vulnerability. In 2002, the sculpture shattered after falling from its pedestal, leading to a groundbreaking restoration that changed how museums approach conservation and repair.

12. The Unicorn Tapestries
Southern Netherlands, c. 1495–1505 (acquired by The Met, 1937)
A series of seven richly detailed tapestries depicting the hunt and capture of a unicorn. Long interpreted as symbols of purity, love and power, their meaning has been debated for centuries. They are displayed at The Met Cloisters, the museum’s medieval branch.

13. The Denial of Saint Peter
Caravaggio, 1610 (acquired by The Met, 1997)
Painted late in Caravaggio’s turbulent life, this work captures the moment Saint Peter denies Christ. Stark lighting and compressed space heighten the psychological tension, reflecting the artist’s increasingly direct and unidealised style.

14. Madonna and Child Enthroned with Saints
Giotto, c. 1310–1320 (acquired by The Met, 1933)
An early Renaissance altarpiece marking a decisive shift away from medieval abstraction toward emotional presence and naturalism. Giotto’s treatment of space and human expression influenced generations of artists who followed.

15. Assyrian Reliefs from the Palace of Ashurnasirpal II
Neo-Assyrian, c. 883–859 BCE (acquired by The Met, late 19th century)
These carved stone panels depict royal hunts and ritual scenes from an ancient palace in present-day Iraq. They played a key role in shaping early Western understanding of Near Eastern civilisation and imperial power.

How to get there

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is located on Fifth Avenue at East 82nd Street, directly opposite Central Park.

Subway access is straightforward. The 4, 5 and 6 trains stop at 86th Street on the East Side, followed by a short walk west through the Upper East Side. The B and C trains stop at 81st Street on the West Side, with an easy walk east across Central Park.

Several bus routes run along Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue, stopping close to the museum entrance. Taxis and rideshare services can drop off directly at the main steps, though traffic along Fifth Avenue can be slow at peak times.

Many visitors choose to approach on foot via Central Park, entering the museum after a walk through the park’s east side, which provides a natural transition from city to gallery.

Buddha Bar, Monte Carlo

Buddha Bar is one of those rare global brands that actually delivers on its promise. I’ve been going for years to the original Buddha Bar in Paris which was closed for renovations in 2023, and reopened with an updated interior and new boudoirs that added even more to the amazing atmosphere. It has remained a favourite, so arriving at Buddha Bar Monte Carlo, I was curious to see how it would translate in a destination as polished and particular as Monaco. It doesn’t disappoint.

Set just moments from the Casino de Monte Carlo, the location is exactly where you want to be, right in the heart of everything yet, once inside, it feels completely removed from the outside world.

Buddha Bar Monte Carlo external

The signature elements are all here with the high ceilings, rich textures, warm lighting, and of course, the giant Buddha presiding over the room.

What I particularly love about the Monte Carlo venue is the upstairs dining room. Sitting above the main floor and looking down onto that enormous Buddha gives you a completely different perspective on the space. It feels slightly more special, but still very much part of the energy below. Eating in the more casual bar area is an experience in itself and sometimes I am more in the mood for that to the more formal dining.

And then there’s the music. This is where Buddha Bar has always excelled. The soundtrack builds gently over the evening, starting relaxed and atmospheric, then deepening into that signature lounge-meets-house rhythm that carries you through the night. I confess to having many of the original CDs from my Paris visits, and, yes, I did buy a new one at my Monte Carlo visit.

The terraces are another highlight. On a warm evening, they offer the perfect contrast to the drama inside, lighter, more relaxed, and ideal for settling in and letting the night unfold at its own pace. These set this venue apart from the Paris one and it’s good to experience all the different moods in the different spaces within one location.

Getting there

Buddha Bar Monte Carlo is located a short walk from the Casino de Monte-Carlo and is easy to reach from most central hotels. Valet parking is available, and its central location makes it a convenient stop before or after other plans.

New York City, USA

Ice skating at the Rockerfeller Centre

New York City needs no introduction. It’s the city that never sleeps. The Big Apple. A place that says ‘if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere’. Home to more than eight million people, it is a dense, restless metropolis that runs on energy, momentum and contrast.

Long before it was New York, this was Lenape land, valued for its waterways and natural harbour. The Dutch established New Amsterdam in the early seventeenth century, followed by British control and the renaming of the city. From the nineteenth century onward, New York became a primary entry point for millions of immigrants, many arriving through Ellis Island with little more than hope and necessity.

Industrialisation, finance, publishing, theatre and later media all took root here. By the twentieth century, New York was not just an American city, but a global one, shaping culture well beyond its borders. That sense of momentum has never really stopped. Even when the city struggles, it rarely loses its forward pull.

New York is not a city you can every know in completeness; it’s a place you learn to navigate, and then revisit with more confidence each time. This is a city built in layers. Indigenous land, Dutch trading post, British colony, industrial powerhouse, immigrant gateway, cultural capital. Each era left marks that still shape how the city moves and thinks today. 

The five boroughs 

Manhattan

Dense, fast and highly compressed, Manhattan is where many visitors spend most of their time, and for good reason. It holds major museums, theatres, landmarks and neighbourhoods with very different personalities packed into a relatively small area. It can feel overwhelming, but it is also highly walkable and surprisingly varied.

Part of that walkability comes from design. Much of Manhattan north of Houston Street follows the street grid introduced in the Commissioners’ Plan of 1811, a rational system of numbered streets and avenues intended to bring order, efficiency and ease of navigation to a rapidly growing city. You can look at a map and orient yourself quickly.

That logic extends even into Central Park. Stone markers, usually set on or near lampposts, indicate the nearest cross street, a small detail that reinforces how deeply the grid is embedded in Manhattan’s thinking. Even inside the park, you always know roughly where you are.

There isn’t one official count of Manhattan’s neighbourhoods. Depending on who you ask, there could be 50 to 60 distinct areas, ranging from well-known names like Tribeca, SoHo, Greenwich Village, Chelsea, the Financial District, Meatpacking District, Hudson Yards, the Upper East Side, the Upper West Side and the East Village, to much smaller pockets that only locals recognise. To make sense of it all, people tend to talk about Manhattan in broader terms: Downtown, Midtown and Uptown, with the East Side and West Side running the length of the island. Once you start walking, those labels quickly give way to more specific identities, and that’s where the city really becomes interesting.

Lower Manhattan and Tribeca

(Roughly Chambers Street south to the harbour, from the Hudson River across to the East River)

If you want to understand how New York began, start downtown. Lower Manhattan is where the city first took shape, and even now it feels different underfoot. Streets are shorter, blocks don’t always line up neatly and the city feels closer to the water. 

Begin at Battery Park, ideally in the morning. Ferries move steadily across the harbour, joggers pass along the waterfront, and the Statue of Liberty sits offshore, smaller than you expect but still arresting. From here, walk north through the Financial District, where the city’s oldest layers sit alongside its most modern. Trinity Church is worth a quick stop, especially for the contrast between its stone walls and the glass towers around it.

A few blocks north is the World Trade Center precinct. The 9/11 Memorial & Museum is a powerful experience. The twin reflecting pools, set into the original tower footprints, create a quiet space even on busy days. Nearby, One World Observatory offers expansive views across Manhattan and out to the rivers, a useful way to reorient yourself after the emotional weight of the memorial.

From here, head toward City Hall Park, a surprisingly pleasant pocket where locals sit, eat lunch and cut through on their way elsewhere. Continue west into Tribeca, where the pace shifts again. Cobblestone streets, cast-iron buildings and former warehouses give the neighbourhood a sense of openness that feels rare in Manhattan.

Tribeca is a place to slow down. Independent shops, small art galleries and long-established restaurants sit alongside residential streets. Tribeca Grill remains a dependable favourite, but wandering a few blocks usually turns up something equally good and less busy. For a quiet indulgence, AIRE Ancient Baths offers a calm retreat inside a restored historic space.

Before leaving the area, stop by the Hook & Ladder 8 firehouse on North Moore Street, known to many as the Ghostbusters headquarters. It’s a small detour, but a fun reminder of how New York’s everyday streets double as cultural landmarks.

End the day along Hudson River Park. The walk north or south is relaxed, and watching the sun drop behind the river is one of downtown’s simple pleasures. 

Greenwich Village and West Village

(Roughly 14th Street to Houston Street, from Broadway west to the Hudson River)

Greenwich Village feels different from most of Manhattan the moment you arrive, largely because it refuses to follow the rules. While much of New York is organised around a strict grid, the Village’s streets curve and double back on themselves. It feels less like moving through a city and more like moving through a neighbourhood.

Historically, this part of Manhattan has been a magnet for people looking for space to think, write, perform and challenge the status quo. Writers like Allen Ginsberg and musicians like Bob Dylan lived and worked here. Painters, actors and poets followed, along with political activists and organisers. The Village earned its reputation as America’s bohemian heart.

That tradition of independence also shaped its role in social change. The Stonewall Inn, on Christopher Street, was the site of the 1969 uprising that helped launch the modern LGBTQ+ rights movement. Today, the surrounding streets remain an important cultural and historical touchstone, recognised officially as the Stonewall National Monument. It’s worth visiting not just for what happened there, but for how present that history still feels.

Architecturally, Greenwich Village is defined by low-rise buildings, brownstones and tree-lined streets. Cafes spill onto sidewalks, independent bookstores buzz, and jazz clubs and small theatres continue to operate much as they always have. Cherry Lane Theatre, one of the country’s oldest continuously running off-Broadway theatres, sits quietly on a side street, easy to miss unless you know to look for it.

Washington Square Park anchors the neighbourhood. It’s lively most days, filled with students, musicians, chess players and locals passing through. From there, streets fan out in every direction, offering different moods. MacDougal Street leans energetic and crowded, while nearby blocks feel residential and calm.

Walking west brings you into the West Village, which is quieter and more polished, but still deeply local. Brownstones line narrow streets, bakeries and small restaurants cater to regulars, and the pace slows noticeably. Hudson River Park sits just beyond, offering one of the most relaxed waterfront walks in Manhattan.

SoHo, Nolita and the Lower East Side

(Roughly Houston Street to Canal Street, from Broadway east to the East River)

This stretch of Lower Manhattan is where New York’s talent for reinvention is easiest to see. SoHo, Nolita and the Lower East Side sit side by side, each shaped by different moments in the city’s history, and each worth time for different reasons.

SoHo is the most immediately recognisable. Its cast-iron buildings, wide streets and large windows give it an arresting, visual consistency. Once an industrial area of factories and warehouses, it became an artists’ enclave in the mid-20th century, when painters and sculptors moved into lofts for the light and space. Today, SoHo is more commercial than creative, but the architecture still does the heavy lifting. Even if you don’t plan to shop, walking the streets and looking up is reason enough to be here.

Nolita, just east of SoHo, is smaller and easier to miss, which is part of its appeal. Cafes spill onto sidewalks in between quaint boutiques, and the pace feels less frantic. It’s a natural spot for a coffee break or an unplanned lunch.

East of Bowery, the Lower East Side feels denser and louder. Historically, this was one of the most crowded immigrant neighbourhoods in the world, home to generations of Jewish, Italian and Eastern European families living in tenements. That history is still visible in the building stock and street layout. The Tenement Museum is worth visiting if you want context for how people actually lived here, often in cramped and difficult conditions.

Today, the Lower East Side balances that past with a busy nightlife scene, and some of the city’s most interesting restaurants and bars are tucked into this area. 

Food is one of the strongest reasons to spend time here. You can still find excellent, no-nonsense meals alongside newer experiential restaurants. Katz’s Delicatessen remains a classic for a reason, and it’s worth the wait if you’ve never been.

What’s remarkable about this area of the city is how quickly it changes within a few blocks. It’s a compact lesson in how New York adapts and keeps moving without ever quite erasing what came before.

Midtown and the theatre districts

(Roughly 34th Street to 59th Street, from the Hudson River to the East River)

Midtown is often the part of Manhattan people brace themselves for, but it doesn’t deserve the dread it sometimes gets. Yes, it’s sensory overload, but it also offers some of New York’s most impressive public spaces and cultural institutions.

Most visits to Midtown start with something familiar: Grand Central Terminal, Times Square, Fifth Avenue. Grand Central is worth visiting, even if you never plan to catch a train. Completed in 1913, the building was designed to feel optimistic and civic, a statement about movement, progress and confidence. Marble floors, arched windows and the famous four-faced clock at the centre of the room give it a sense of ceremony and old-world charm. Stand on the main concourse for a few minutes and watch the flow of people. Look up and you’ll see the celestial ceiling, painted with constellations in gold against a pale blue-green background. Beyond the main hall, Grand Central rewards curiosity. The Whispering Gallery near the Oyster Bar is a small architectural trick that never ceases to delight.

From here, Midtown spreads out quickly. Fifth Avenue draws shoppers and window-watchers, while Rockefeller Center serves as a major hub for entertainment, shopping and dining. In winter, the ice skating rink and the towering Christmas tree turn the space into an enchanted wonderland; at other times of year, the rink gives way to bustling outdoor dining and open space. Shops here range from long-standing names like FAO Schwarz, which remains a draw for families and the nostalgic alike, to smaller boutiques tucked into the surrounding buildings. For views, the Top of the Rock offers one of the clearest perspectives on Manhattan, with Central Park stretching north and the city grid falling into place below.

Times Square sits just west, loud and relentless. It’s not subtle, but it doesn’t pretend to be. People say it’s not somewhere to linger for long, but sI enjoy its energy and frenetic pace. Seeing it once, preferably after dark, helps you understand the scale and energy of the city. Every evening at 11.57pm the installation Midnight Moment transforms it into a giant art gallery. Different every night, all of the digital billboards (90+) turn off the ads and synchronise to display the same digital art piece. It is quite mind-blowing in its scale and worth experiencing at least once to understand the scale. A different artist is showcased each month..

Just beyond Times Square is the theatre district, which remains one of Midtown’s strongest drawcards. Broadway still reigns supreme, but Off-Broadway and smaller theatres nearby often offer more interesting performances. Seeing a show here feels like a New York rite of passage, whether it’s a long-running musical or something more experimental.

Midtown is also home to some of the city’s most important cultural institutions. The Museum of Modern Art is one of the most influential modern art museums in the world, known for its focused layout and collection that ranges from early modernism to contemporary work. Nearby, institutions like the New York Public Library and Radio City Music Hall anchor the area’s literary and performance traditions.

Upper East Side

(Roughly 59th Street to 96th Street, from Fifth Avenue to the East River)

The Upper East Side has long been associated with wealth, tradition and a certain formality. This is one of Manhattan’s most established residential neighbourhoods, shaped by generations of long-term residents. Even as the city changes, the Upper East Side remains steady, and you feel that immediately.

Real estate here sets the tone. Along Fifth Avenue and Park Avenue, grand pre-war apartment buildings with doormen and private entrances define the streetscape. Many families have lived here for decades, sometimes generations, and that continuity shows in the way people move through the neighbourhood. There’s less urgency and more routine.

East of Park Avenue, townhouses and smaller apartment buildings sit on quieter streets, and daily life becomes more visible. You see children walking to school, older residents heading to the same cafes they’ve been visiting for years, and a strong sense of neighbourhood order. 

Museum Mile runs along Fifth Avenue beside Central Park and brings visitors into the area, but it doesn’t overwhelm it. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Guggenheim and other institutions feel integrated into the neighbourhood rather than imposed on it. A museum visit here blends easily into a day that might also include a long lunch, a quiet walk and an early dinner.

Food on the Upper East Side reflects its residents. Restaurants are polished and dependable. Old-school dining rooms, neighbourhood bistros and reliable cafés dominate. This is not where trends are launched, but it is where places last.

For travellers, the appeal lies in calm and access. It’s an excellent base if you want museums, Central Park and a more residential experience at the end of the day. The Upper East Side may not chase attention, but it offers a clear sense of how New York’s established families and institutions live their daily lives.

Upper West Side

(Roughly 59th Street to 110th Street, from Central Park to the Hudson River)

The Upper West Side feels immediately more relaxed than its eastern counterpart. Framed by Central Park on one side and the Hudson River on the other, it benefits from space, greenery and a sense of balance that’s hard to find elsewhere in Manhattan.

Many visits start at Lincoln Center, the city’s main performing arts complex. Even if you don’t attend a concert or opera, the plaza is worth seeing, especially in the evening when people gather before performances. From here, the neighbourhood unfolds in long, walkable stretches.

Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue are the main arteries, lined with cafes, bookstores, bakeries and casual restaurants. This is a neighbourhood that supports daily life well. You’ll see people heading to school, walking dogs, meeting friends for coffee. It feels social without being loud.

Central Park’s west side is calmer than the east, with winding paths, open lawns and fewer crowds. On the other side of the neighbourhood, Riverside Park runs along the Hudson and offers one of the best walking routes in Manhattan. Late afternoon is ideal here, when the light drops over the river.

Culturally, the Upper West Side has long been associated with writers, academics and performers. That influence still shows. Independent cinemas, bookshops and smaller performance spaces sit comfortably alongside everyday services. The American Museum of Natural History, on Central Park West, is another anchor.

Eating on the Upper West Side is relaxed and dependable. Restaurants tend to prioritise comfort over trend, making it a good place for unhurried meals. It’s also one of the easiest neighbourhoods in Manhattan to settle into for a few days without feeling rushed.

The Upper West Side works well for travellers who want access to culture and green space without constant intensity. 

Harlem

(Roughly 110th Street to 155th Street, from the Hudson River to the Harlem River)

Harlem is one of those places that carries its history openly. Harlem’s story is central to American history. In the early 20th century, it became the heart of Black cultural life in the United States, drawing writers, musicians and thinkers during the Harlem Renaissance. Names like Langston Hughes, Zora Neale Hurston and Duke Ellington are woven into the neighbourhood’s identity and it’s something locals are rightly protective of.

Architecturally, Harlem is striking. Wide avenues are lined with rows of brownstones, many beautifully restored, giving the area a sense of scale and elegance. Walking along streets like Strivers’ Row or around Mount Morris Park, now Marcus Garvey Park, gives you a sense of how established and residential Harlem has always been.

125th Street is the main commercial spine and a good reference point. It’s busy, functional and full of local life. The Apollo Theater sits just off it; Amateur Night remains one of the most famous open stages in the world, and the theatre still plays a central role in Harlem’s cultural life.

Harlem is known for soul food, and places like Sylvia’s and Red Rooster have become landmarks for a reason. That said, the neighbourhood’s dining scene has widened considerably, with West African, Caribbean and modern American restaurants reflecting the diversity of the people who live here. 

Music remains part of daily life. Jazz clubs, gospel churches and small performance spaces are aplenty. On Sundays, gospel services welcome both locals and visitors alike.

Harlem also hosts regular events and celebrations. Summer brings outdoor concerts and festivals in local parks, while parades and cultural events mark key moments throughout the year. 

For travellers, Harlem shows a side of New York that is creative, proud and community-driven. It’s not a neighbourhood to rush through. Spend time walking, eating, listening. Harlem reveals itself gradually, and when it does, it adds depth to everything else you see in the city.

Meatpacking District

(Roughly Gansevoort Street to West 14th Street, from the Hudson River to Hudson Street)

The Meatpacking District is small, walkable and intensely New York in the way it has reinvented itself without fully erasing its past. Even today, early in the morning, you can still see delivery trucks and remnants of its working-life origins before the neighbourhood shifts into something far more polished by midday.

Historically, this area was exactly what its name suggests. For much of the 20th century, it was home to slaughterhouses, meat wholesalers and packing plants, supplying restaurants and markets across the city. That industrial past shaped everything from the cobblestone streets to the low-slung warehouse buildings that still define the neighbourhood. When the industry declined, artists, designers and nightlife followed, drawn by cheap space and a sense of freedom from Midtown formality.

Walking through the Meatpacking District today, that tension between old and new is part of the appeal. Cobblestones remain uneven underfoot. Former warehouses now house fashion flagships, boutique hotels and restaurants. The architecture stays low and muscular, which gives the area an intimacy that stands out amongst Manhattan’s high-rises.

The High Line begins here, and it’s one of the best ways to experience the neighbourhood. Entering at Gansevoort Street lets you rise above the streets without leaving them behind. From above, you see how closely packed everything is, and how deliberately the old structures have been reused rather than replaced.

The Whitney Museum of American Art sits at the southern edge of the district. Its clean, modern lines contrast with the roughness of the surrounding streets, and its terraces offer views back over the High Line and out toward the river. 

Food and nightlife are central to the Meatpacking District. This is a neighbourhood where people come to be out, with fancy rooftop bars and late-night spots always drawing a crowd and pulsating energy. 

Hudson Yards

(Roughly West 30th Street to West 34th Street, from Tenth Avenue to the Hudson River)

Hudson Yards feels like New York’s newest chapter written all at once and is where I am living with sweeping views of the Hudson River from every window. Rising over a former rail yard on Manhattan’s far west side, it is deliberately modern, carefully planned and visually striking in a way that immediately sets it apart from the rest of the city.

This is architecture-led New York. Glass towers dominate the skyline, reflecting the river and sky. The buildings are tall and smooth, designed by some of the world’s most recognisable architects. Unlike most of Manhattan, which grew block by block over decades, Hudson Yards arrived as a complete vision, and that alone makes it worth seeing.

The centrepiece is the public square, anchored by The Vessel. The honeycomb-like structure was designed as a climbable sculpture, encouraging visitors to experience architecture physically rather than from a distance. Even viewed from ground level, it gives the area a focal point and a sense of scale.

Nearby, The Shed adds a cultural layer. Its movable outer shell allows the building to expand and contract depending on the event inside. It’s one of the most visibly experimental performance spaces in the city, and its design reflects Hudson Yards’ emphasis on flexibility and future-facing ideas.

The surrounding towers are sleek and vertical, housing offices, residences and hotels. Interiors are light-filled and contemporary, designed for efficiency and views. It’s a neighbourhood that speaks clearly to global business, modern luxury and new money, and it doesn’t pretend otherwise.

Shopping and dining here are concentrated and polished. The mall-like interior spaces offer a sharp contrast to the street life elsewhere in the city. 

Walking west toward the Hudson River helps balance things out. The waterfront paths offer open views and space to breathe, especially at sunset. Hudson Yards is best experienced as part of a larger walk that includes the High Line and the river.

As a destination, Hudson Yards is less about atmosphere and more about statement. It shows where New York is willing to go next, architecturally and economically, and how boldly the city continues to remake itself.

Brooklyn

(Across the East River from Manhattan, stretching from Brooklyn Heights to Bay Ridge)

Creative, residential and deeply neighbourhood-driven. Brooklyn has its own cultural gravity, with strong food scenes, waterfront parks and a mix of long-standing communities and newer arrivals. 

No trip to New York feels complete without walking across the Brooklyn Bridge. Start from Manhattan and head east, ideally in the morning or at golden hour. The city opens up behind you, the skyline stretches out, and by the time you reach the other side, the pace has already shifted. 

Brooklyn is not a single experience but a collection of neighbourhoods that people commit to deeply. It feels residential in a way Manhattan rarely does. Streets are wider, apartments are larger and daily life feels less compressed. 

Brooklyn Heights is a natural first stop. Its brownstone-lined streets feel quintessentially ‘Brooklyn’, and the Brooklyn Heights Promenade offers one of the best views of Manhattan anywhere in the city. 

Further north, Williamsburg and Greenpoint bring energy and creativity. Williamsburg is social and busy, especially at night, with restaurants, bars and shops that attract visitors from across the city. Greenpoint, just beyond, feels more local and settled, shaped by its Polish roots and strong food culture. Bakeries, cafes and long-standing restaurants give it a sense of continuity that’s easy to appreciate.

Fort Greene and Clinton Hill sit somewhere in between. These creative neighbourhoods are anchored by leafy streets, independent bookstores and cultural institutions. Prospect Park plays a similar role for much of Brooklyn that Central Park does for Manhattan, but with a more relaxed feel. Locals picnic, run, cycle and meet friends here.

Food is synonymous with Brooklyn. Dining here tends to be neighbourhood-focused and confident rather than flashy. You’ll find excellent pizza, bakeries and restaurants across the borough, often without the need to plan far ahead. Meals are unhurried, and places build loyal followings over time.

Brooklyn also has strong waterfront parks, especially along the East River and further south toward Red Hook, where industrial history and creative reuse overlap. Walking these areas offers a quieter perspective on the city.

Brooklyn rewards commitment. Pick a neighbourhood, spend time walking its streets, eat where locals eat, and resist the urge to rush back to Manhattan.

 Queens

(East of Manhattan, stretching from Long Island City to Flushing and Jamaica)

Queens – large, spread out, and not designed for sightseeing on foot in the way Manhattan is – offers some of the most satisfying experiences in New York if you approach it deliberately. 

The easiest entry point is Long Island City. It’s one subway stop from Midtown and makes a good introduction. Gantry Plaza State Park sits right on the East River and offers clear, open views back to Manhattan. It’s calmer than Brooklyn’s waterfront and rarely crowded. Nearby, MoMA PS1 is worth visiting if you’re interested in contemporary art in a less formal setting than Manhattan museums.

Astoria is where many visitors spend the most time. It’s well connected by subway and easy to navigate once you arrive. The neighbourhood is known for Greek food, but its dining scene is broader than that. Bakeries, Middle Eastern restaurants, casual cafes and long-standing tavernas line the streets. Astoria Park is a good place to reset, with wide lawns, river views and one of the city’s most scenic public pools in summer.

For food-focused travellers, Queens really opens up further east. Jackson Heights is one of the best eating neighbourhoods in New York. Indian, Nepali, Tibetan, Mexican and Colombian restaurants cluster along Roosevelt Avenue and surrounding streets. Many places are modest in appearance but excellent in quality. Walking this area around lunchtime gives you the widest choice.

Flushing, in eastern Queens, is worth the longer subway ride if you’re interested in Chinese and East Asian food. The neighbourhood is busy, loud and functional. Food courts, bakeries and small restaurants serve locals first, and the variety is unmatched. Flushing Meadows-Corona Park nearby offers open space and landmarks like the Unisphere, originally built for the World’s Fair.

Queens is also where New York’s global infrastructure lives, with two major airports here. Getting around Queens is easiest by subway combined with walking short distances. 

The Bronx

(North of Manhattan, from the Harlem River to Yonkers)

The Bronx carries a strong sense of identity and pride. It’s often misunderstood, but spending time here quickly dispels outdated stereotypes. This is a borough shaped by culture, resilience and community.

The Bronx is famously the birthplace of hip-hop, and that legacy is still present. Music, art and street culture remain part of daily life rather than packaged experiences. Neighbourhoods feel self-contained, with long-standing residents and strong local ties.

Cultural institutions here are significant. The New York Botanical Garden offers expansive grounds and seasonal exhibitions, while the Bronx Zoo is one of the largest urban zoos in the world. These spaces provide a surprising sense of openness and green relief.

Arthur Avenue, in the Bronx’s Little Italy, is one of the borough’s most popular food destinations. Many consider it more authentic than Manhattan’s Little Italy, with long-standing Italian bakeries, markets and restaurants.

Food across the Bronx reflects its diversity. Caribbean, Latin American and West African influences are strong, and meals feel communal and generous.

For travellers, the Bronx offers perspective. It shows a side of New York that is grounded, expressive and unapologetically local. 

Staten Island

(South of Manhattan, accessible by ferry)

Staten Island is quieter, greener and more suburban than the rest of New York City. It doesn’t try to compete with Manhattan or Brooklyn, and that’s part of its appeal.

The Staten Island Ferry is free, runs frequently and offers wide views of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and Lower Manhattan. Even if you step straight back on for the return trip, the ride is worth it.

Once on Staten Island, the pace changes noticeably. Neighbourhoods are residential, streets are wider and life moves more slowly. Historic towns like St George and Tottenville offer glimpses into the borough’s past. The Staten Island Museum provides insight into local history, art and science, while waterfront parks offer calm walking paths and harbour views without crowds.

The Parthenon, Athens

I have visited the Parthenon many times over the years and to me it remains one of the most compelling monuments in the ancient world. Rising above Athens on the Acropolis, it dominates the city skyline much as it has for more than two thousand years. It is between the historic districts of Plaka and Monastiraki and an easy walk from Syntagma Square. Yet what we see today is not simply an ancient temple, but the result of centuries of change, damage and survival.

The Parthenon was built between 447 and 432 BCE during the leadership of Pericles, when Athens was at the height of its cultural and political influence. It was dedicated to Athena Parthenos, the city’s patron goddess, whose presence symbolised wisdom, strategy and civic order. This was the same period in which democracy, philosophy and theatre flourished in Athens.

What makes the building remarkable, apart from its position high above the city, is the precision of its design. At first glance it appears perfectly symmetrical, but this harmony is the result of subtle adjustments. The columns swell slightly in the middle, the platform curves upward and the lines of the structure lean almost imperceptibly inward. These refinements were deliberate, correcting optical distortions and creating the balance that still impresses today.

Ancient Greek temples were not designed to be entered in the way modern buildings are. Religious ceremonies took place outside, with processions and offerings forming part of public life. The Parthenon was therefore meant to be viewed from all sides, its sculptural friezes depicting mythological battles, gods and scenes from Athenian civic life.

The removal of many of its sculptures in the early nineteenth century by Lord Elgin is a contentious issue, and the debate over the return of the so-called Elgin marbles from the British Museum is still a hot topic.

Just below the Acropolis stands another extraordinary monument, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre built in AD 161 by the wealthy Athenian Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife. Even today it is used for performances during the Athens Festival, seating around 5,000 people beneath the Acropolis walls.

On 31 July 2025, I attended a performance of Vivaldi’s opera ‘Rigoletto’ there. Sitting on the ancient marble tiers as the opera unfolded under the night sky, with the illuminated Parthenon above us, was one of those rare moments when history and performance merge into a single experience.

For now, however, the theatre has fallen silent. After the 2025 season it closed for a major restoration expected to last around three years, as conservators stabilise the ancient stone seating and protect the structure from further wear. The intention is to ensure the theatre can safely host concerts and opera again in the future.

Like the theatre below it, the Parthenon itself has had many lives. After antiquity it became a Christian church, and later a mosque during the Ottoman period. The most dramatic damage occurred in 1687 when a Venetian bombardment ignited gunpowder stored inside the building, destroying much of its centre.

Despite these losses, the Parthenon remains one of the most powerful architectural experiences in Europe. It was conceived as a temple but is more a statement about civilisation and that beauty, order and civic life could be expressed through architecture.

Light plays a crucial role in the experience. Throughout the day the marble shifts from pale gold to deep shadow, and from the city below the building appears almost suspended above Athens. It is visible from nearly every vantage point in Athens and there are a myriad of rooftop bars with amazing views to the floodlit night view of the Parthenon.

Preservation work at the Parthenon.

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